No "This Device: [name] (ipaddress)" in Tailscale Menu

So, I have 3 Macs among my Tailscale devices, and one of them is missing the “This Device:” item in the menubar menu, which makes grabbing the local TS IP address a little annoying rather than just being able to click/copy it from there. I can’t find where or how I turned it off (if I did?), or how to turn it back on. Any suggestions?

Missing item on a MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2017, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports), OS v 11.6.1, Tailscale 1.18.0

We’ve seen this happen occasionally, though not repeatably. We think it is a race condition during startup, that something isn’t ready when that UI element is supposed to be rendered so it gets skipped.

On the occasions where this has happened, quitting the app and starting it again has often resolved it.

Sadly, I am an outlier because I’ve restarted the app, the computer, deleted/reinstalled the app… to no avail.
Oh, this has been going on for a while. I lost it a couple versions ago and thought an update would fix it, but the latest update did not.
Any other suggestions?